Also check out the FAQ page (frequently asked questions) for more information similar to what you see here! Such as: aromatherapy, primers, barrier creams, service breakdown, drills, fungus, nails and pregnancy, etc!

Now for what you will find on THIS page! Subjects are listed in the order they appear. Click on a subject link to go directly to that subject.

Barb's 21 Top Tech Tips!
-Towel trick
-Polish color discs
-Spa pedicure tips
-Aromatherapy
-French Manicures; tips and step-by-step lesson
-White French Manicure(plastic)Tips
-Appointment planning
-Client card system
-Primer application
-Hand protection
-Lint free wipes
-Gel nail brush care
-Gel storage
-MSDS tips
-Pricing nail services
-Blending tips
-My best education tip
-Base coat/top coat
-Obsessive clients
-Children!!!
-The 100 full-set rule
-How long can I wear nail enhancements?

More Hints & Tips about anything and everything!
Nailite polish colors list
Barb's polish picks for spring/summer 1999
Barb's polish picks for fall/winter 98-99
Acrylic lifting problems (see also acrylics page)
More pedicure tips
-pricing
-massage
-clean-up
Nail biter application tips
Nail cracks and breaks
-Step-by-step first-aid
Nail bed lifts (also see FAQ's)
Competition Tips
Money Saving ideas
Private labeling
Mixing your own polish colors
Cuticle oil recipe
Exfoliating crystals
Client gift ideas
Comments/ideas to add?
Malpractice Insurance

You no longer need to scroll down to find the tip you are looking for, simply click on the tip you want to go straight to that tip!.(Tips are listed above in the order they appear, below.) I am in the process of continually reorganizing this page (and all the others as well!)to make it/them easier to navigate. Each section listed above is separated by a line of #'s, as below. (Soon that will be changed to a more professional section divider as well.... hey, I know nails, not HTML code... but many thanks to the many "Net Techs" who are HTML savvy who have taken pity on me and helped me with my code changes. Little, by little, I will get "there" eventually!

1) Table towels at the manicure table: I use cotton napkins (like a restaurant uses)instead of terry towels. They are the perfect size for a nail table. The best part of the tip is that I lay out a stack of 10, 20, or 30 of them at a time (one on top of another). As I work and create dust I can simply fold the top towel in half to get a new clean, dust-free work surface, (take the edge of the napkin near the client and fold over towards me, over the dust, so the 2 edges are now by me, and the folded edge is in the middle of the stack, toward the client). When I create more dust I can then just pick-up that folded towel (all the dust should have stayed on techs side anyway)and toss in the hamper. So I always have a clean towel for each part of the service, and also a clean towel for each client. Because napkins are cheaper to purchase than terry towels, and take up less room each in the washing machine, they are less expensive (initial cost and washing) to use even if you use 2 per client! Back to Top

2) Polish discs (I like the INSYST discs). By having the polish on the discs you can keep the polish bottles away from the clients. So then they will pick a color based on what it looks like ON them, not by how it looks in the bottle (or by the name). This saves much time with clients who have trouble deciding on polish colors. Also prevents having to repolish them because they decide they don't like a color just as you have finished applying the 2nd coat. Apply polish to discs in COLOR GROUPINGS. Such as reds, orange-ish's and orangey reds, pinks and pinky reds, browns and beiges, mauves and nuetrals, purplish's and dark reds and burgundies, trendy and funky colors (blue, green, etc). Grouping by colors cuts down at the number of wheels a client needs to pick from. Also put french manicure optiona on a wheel, this reduces the "well what would that off white free-edge look like with pink opal over it?, or maybe with the whiote opal, or make that the bright white tip......" All the combos are there on a wheel to see! But still twice a year I do have to "mess with their minds" and I pick 20 of my 200 current colors to be the new seasons colors (a variety from differant wheels to reflect what the major lines are promoting). My clients swear that the colors are new! It gets them to try stuff they would have never considered. I've even fooled my self.... I "think" I can't wear "orangey" types of colors, so I never look at my orange wheel, but I WILL pick an "orange" off the new trend wheels and love it! Last tip about this..... When polishing the wheels, be sure to polish exactly like you would a client so that the wheels are TRUE! If you find a polish that simply doesn't go on perfectly, don't make it perfect on the wheel! If it "marbelizes" or streaks a bit, let that show on the wheel, so the client knows what to expect. Also use the same amount of polish (not more or less!) and the same top-coat and drying methods. Add additional topcoat only about once every 3-6 months (more often than that and the disc polish will be much shinnier than the client can expect in real life!) Back to Top

3)PEDICURING TIPS: Turn an ordinary pedicure into a spa pedicure with little added expense! Add MILK to the footbath (it's a natural AHA)for soaking. I also like EPSOM SALTS in the fottbath water, very soothing and reduces swelling. Baking soda (a few teaspoons or so) gives soaking water a nice "FIZZ". Table salt (ordinary table salt. about a tablespoon or so) and liquid soap makes a great exfoliator, then follow up w/ regular foot file techniques, rinse and dry. Next rub foot and leg w/ lemon quarters (natural fruit acids leave a very nice "polished" look and feel). Follow up with rubbing a natural edible oil (such as olive oil, sesame seed oil,--- rice bran is my absolute favorite ---great slip, nice scent, like silk, very light, find in gourmet grocery stores; any natural "non'mineral" oil will do nicely here!), and proceed with regular hydrating treatments such as heavy cream (not lotion--- the evaporation of water from thin lotions can make the skin FEEL even dryer!) and paraffin wax....then continue as usual...these simple, inexpensive extras, give a pedicure a real boost---in price AND customer satisfaction! Back to Top

LESS EXPENSIVE AROMATHERAPY IDEAS (to use with youe spa pedicures)..... cinnamon OR vanilla in bulk from the grocery store or wharehouse club, float some lemmon slices, ZEST some lemon or orange into the water right in front of the client, I personally like epsom salts and witch hazel. What about Vicks Mentholatum (the generic of course from the drugstore)? A teaspoon or so melts away into the water and ahhhh, relief for the allergy/sinus clients (don't call it VICKS, refer to it at Mentholyptus or Eucolyptus(whatever the jar ingredients say). AND **REMEMBER**, we always ASK first before starting ANY AROMATHERAPY of any type (due to allergies and sensitivities).....The possibilities are endless....! Back to Top

4) FRENCH MANICURES DONE WITH POLISH... & Pricing strategies for FM'S : Having our clinets wearing FM's is good advertisement for our nail services*, so being able to offer a "FREE" FM can work to your advantage. Try this... make only specialty French Manicures extra--! Do the following BASIC FM FOR FREE----it is very basic and NO EXTRA work compared to a regular polish job! (Once you master it, I think it takes LESS time!) JUST WHITE FREE EDGE AND CLEAR TOPCOAT! NO BASE COLOR OR COLOR COVER COATS---THOSE ARE NON-BASIC FRENCHES AND WOULD COST MORE!(IN this pricing strategy) NOTE: *Of course your work underneath needs to be perfect! Back to Top

QUICKIE EASY FRENCH MANICURE LESSON Barbs Quickie FM: No base coat or base color, Swipe the free edge with only one of 2 FM whites (Do not give clients a lot of choices, this is where they end up wasting your time----for some clients there is NO CHOICE available, I pick for them because even just 2 choices takes up 5 minutes! Back to Top

My personal favorite FM whites (for free-edge) is #200 from Nailite (an off white, more "real" looking, and EASIER to WORK with, doesn't show slight flaws as easily as the brite whites do).

STEP # 1) I simply swipe the polish on along the smile line from one corner to the other in one smooth "smiley stroke" (or 2 if you prefer, right to center, then left to center, then pull out toward you) and then pull it out over the free edge to complete the coverage (I do this in ONE COAT only)-----also to maximize drying time and prevent "drippage" I do the "white" in this order nail # 6 1st (their RT thumb, and then lay it flat to start drying!) then fingers 1 to 4 on other hand (that is pinkie thru index on their left---or your right as you look at them, if you prefer!) Now nails 7-10 (index-pinkie of their right hand)and finally nail #5 (their left thumb).

(FYI: Numbering nails in this fashion, as #1 thru #10 from right to left as you look at them, or left to right from the cleints point of view, helps minimize confusion in describing which nail is which for client record cards and other purposes!)

Hints on applying the "smile line": Hold your loaded polish brush HORIZONTALLY, that is parallel to the nail. And also horizontally as in tip of brush towards one side wall, and handle toward other side wall. Let the ball of polish at end of brush just barely tough the nail surface at the right hand sidewall. Keeping your brush OFF the nail, slowly and staedily GUIDE the polish along the desired smile line. Pulling it toward the center of the nail in a "U" shape. The brush brisles NEVER touch the nail, you are FLOATING the line of polish on top of the nail. If you can draw your U all the way to the other sidewall GREAT! If not then stop just past center, and start from the other sidewall to meet and overlap slightly the center. Now, still keeping you polish brush FLAT, parallel to the nail, turn your brush perpendicular to how you were holding it to draw the smile line. So now brush end is poited toward cuticle and handle is toward free edge. Now set brush into the "pool" of polish at the smile line you have just drawn, and gently PULL the polish from the smile to the free edge. Do not flare the bristles of your polish brush. Just pull the polish out and over the entire free edge in 3 strokes. (If it is a lareg free-edge you may need some "extra" polish reserve in your brush for complete coverage.)

STEP #2) Now, If you have another client, send them (the FM client) to the dryers for 3-5 minutes if possible, and start working on your next client, otherwise, just go straight to the last step, and that is NO COLOR , only your regular CLEAR TOPCOAT! (I prefer a thick one, like a U-V topcoat; being careful when you pull-out over the white polish so as not to drag or streak! Float the topcoat out and over the white free edge (not as big of a problem if you were able to let them dry a little first). Now send them back to the dryers!

OTHER FM OPTIONS As for other choices, put them on a wheel (I have a wheel of 20 differant combo choices using differant whites (for free-edge color) and differant beiges, pinks, irridescents, etc for overcoat colors.) Put the free one (the basic one desrcibed above) in one slot on the insyst disc and mark FREE (in that spot on the back of the wheel) or No Charge or Comp,(as in complimentary, my personal favorite term) on the back (use black perm. marker), in the center of the disc on the back write $$$ French Manicure Choices----so now it is their choice, to choose between the basic "free" one and the $5 additional charge choices. So those clients who insist on a certain look (which takes more time and skill to make look perfect 'cause those darn very light opaques always streak on me!) will pay by choice! (Although I personally DO NOT charge extra for any of my FM's, this is an idea for those of you who do prefer to charge a la carte because of the particular "business climate" in your area. This allows you to offer extra free amenities (with limits) without bankrupting yourself time and $ wise!

Tip #5) FRENCH MANICURE TIPS (as in white plastic extension tips)
QUESTION: How do I keep smile lines even when working w/ french white tips and my client has one nail that is broken or much shorter than the other 9?
ANSWER: Use a "double tip" method on the short nail. This applies equally to a new full-set or a repair at a "fill". Apply a thin clear tip to the short nail and blend and shape as usual (of course cutting it shorter than it's ultimate goal length) to make it look like a natural nail bed. Then apply the white tip over the clear tip, just as if the clear tip were a natural nail bed, thereby raising up the level of the "smile line" on this short nail to match the others, so your client can once again leave the shop sans polish! Back to Top

#6) Appointment planning; dealing with chronic no shows or late comers. Always tell them that their appt. is 15 mins before it really is (especially a first-time client too!). This way, after 10 mins have gone by, you still have 5 mins before they would officially be late to call them and find out where they are. If they just forgot, you may have time to get them in your chair in time or fill the appt. with someone else. At the very least, as soon as you are done with the previous client you can get away from the table immediately go to do something else (clean, eat, run errands)and not sit and waste 15 more mins wondering if they will show up! I actually book ALL my people for 10-15 mins before their actual appt. so that they have time to "do" everything; like remove polish, wash up, pick their polish color, get snacks, and write their check! I always CALL no shows at 10 mins past their appt time to find out what happened. Sometimes they just forget or had the date wrong. I don't want to end up with 2 peolpe who think they have the 6:15's tomorrow nite! Most of the time clients are running in breathlessly as I am leaving a message on their answering machine. But that message serves as a nice reminder later on when they get home again to BE ON TIME! Back to Top

7) Client cards: File them by their FIRST NAME, then by last names! Also choose how to file Cathy's and Kathy's (etc), either ALL in C or ALL in K regardless of how the client spells it (of course spell it correctly on the card!). This makes it much easier to find cards based on the appt book notations. (We rarely ask for last names when taking the appt) A combo of the first name and the phone # usually clears up just what Kathy it is! Back to Top

8) PrimerHow to decide if a client needs 1 or 2 coats of primer (the methacrylic acid type that is).... If the primer dries chalky realitively quickly, then the client only needs one coat! If it takes FOREVER to chalk up, then she need 2 coats!!! This is all relative of course! If "drying" time is in the middle, then opt for 1 coat in the winter, and 2 coats in the summer (or according to your local climate!) Back to Top

9)Hand Protection: I use goat skin gloves to protect my hands when hand filing or using the drill. They keeps the files from "filing" through my skin, and also keeps the DUST off my skin! I find tht goat skin to be very breathable and not hot, also very flexible and light weight, a very natural feel, and easy to take on and off. I store them with my files so they are always there to put on when I start filing, and take off and put away when done filing. I take them off for actual product application. I put them back on to do finish work, then off again to polish! A real hand saver! When I see the holes in the fingers of those gloves (so then I have to replace them). I'm glad it's the gloves and not my poor fingers getting all that abuse! Back to Top

10) Lint free wipes... I like Marathon or Martex cocktail napkins. Completely lint-free and less than 1/4 of 1 cent each! Easily folded to make thicker or to get "new" fresh wiping surfasces to work with (especially important with GEL NAILS). Back to Top

11) Gel nail brushes.... No need to EVER clean them. Simply store in a folded towel in a drawer. I never clean out the gel between clients or at the end of the day or even end of the week... Not even before a vacation. No need to remove the gel from them, simply wipe off excess on side of gel jar and keep them out of the light and dust...forever! Back to Top

12) Gel nail containers. Loose the sticky lids. Keep containers OPEN all the time, simply keep covered with a towel to protect from light and dust is all that is needed! Mine NEVER see their lids! 8 years with no lids and no problems! Back to Top

#13)MSDS When "reading" an MSDS and you come across a chemical name that is completely foreign to you, look at the CAS# (chemical abstract service number). Companies may use different or obscure names when listing their ingredients, but the CAS# is always the same! Compare this # to other MSDS sheets to find another with the same # (easily done!), to find out what your "mystery" ingredient is. This trick has come in very handy in uncovering formaldehyde and toluene in formulations that used obscure names for these ingredients, so at first glance many would mistakenly assume these products did not contain those ingredients, when in fact they did. I have counted at one point 17 different names being used to describe these chemicals. Personally I feel both ingredients are safe when used properly, but it makes one wonder why some companies go to so much "trouble" to hide them? Back to Top

#14) Pricing nail services: First, pricing of nail services in relation to each other. The following ratios are approximate and based on "basic" services, without "add-ons" or deluxe treatments. One Fill-In (2 wk) on Acrylic Nails is equal in price to 2 Manicures. 1 Pedicure = 2 1/2 Manicures. 1 Full-Set acrylics = 2 acrylic Fill-Ins (range of 1 1/2 to 2 1/2) or 4 manicures (range of 3 to 5 manicures). 1 spa manicure and/or pedicure = 1 1/2 to 2 times basic manicure and/or pedicure.

If you charge a la carte add these charges accordingly: Paraffin Wax adds about 20% to 33% to a service. Broken nails at a fill (if not already included) = 10 to 20% of the fill price each nail in addition to the fill. Broken nails between fill appts = 15-20% of a full-set. (Do not do 10% because you figure it's only 1 nail, that repair appt takes up more TIME than only 10% of a full-set does!) Polish change between fill appt. = 25% to 33% (1/4 to 1/3)of fill-in charge.

Most add-on services are charged at about $1 per minute of time and/or a mark-up of 3 to 10 times the cost of supplies. Retail sales should never be less than double your price (personally I like triple or more). When doing add-on or other services you should make MORE per minute than you do doing a regular fill or manicure! Back to Top

Pricing of nail services compared to hair services in a salon: Full-Set = Hi end Perm or Foil Highlights. Fill-In = Cut and Style. Manicure = weekly Wash and Style.

#15)Blending Tips: Preview how well you have blended a tip by putting a drop of dehydrator or pH balancer on the seam. This will show you what the nail will look like with the overlay on it! And so allow you to keep blending if needed, especially for "newbies". Back to Top

#16) My best education tip: Teach someone else how to do nails! Thinking about and verbalizing the how-to's and whys, as well as correcting someone else as they make mistakes will make you re-analyze and examine every step of your own technique. This "self-realization" is usually "subliminal" but it pays off with better technique and faster service times! Use this technique for even the most basic of procedures like polishing and see dramatic results! Back to Top

#17)Basecoat/topcoat: Can't remember which is your base coat and which is top coat? base coats should dry MATTE (dull) and TACKY (sticky)and FAST! Top coats should dry GLOSSY (shiny), SMOOTH (like glass) and SLOWER! So do I think "all in one" products work? en-oh, NO! It simply defies logic and CHEMISTRY! Back to Top

#18) Obsessive Clients: What to do with clients who "obsessively" watch you do their nails and constantly critique and "direct" your work, and basically fight you for control of their hands because they want to "see", making it difficult both physically and emotionally to DO their nails..... This has worked for me in the past: I politely say, "If you can see your nails, then I can't. And you are paying me right now to look at them!!!" Back to Top

#19)Children! I use a similar ploy as above, with clients with children. I work it into the conversation that when children are present I can't help but devote a good 50% of my attention to the child (and the child's safety in the salon environment). Whether I want to or not I just cannot devote 100% attention to their nails. That really makes them think! I always thought of putting up a sign that said, "When you come alone I devote 100% of my energies and attention to you and your nails. When you bring a child with, then I devote 50% to keeping an eye on the child and only 50% to your nails." Fortunately, I never had to put up that sign! Back to Top

#20) The 100 Full-Set rule.... That's about exactly how long it takes before a new tech finally "gets" it when it comes to doing nail enhancements. There are no instant answers, no "magical" product brands or techniques that will turn them into a proficient nail tech overnight. Time and time again, I have seen that 100th full-set mark as the time when a tech discovers her own style and technique and it just starts to come "naturally". The same can usually be said for an experienced tech starting to use a new product or brand; for her to build back up to her previous speed and expertise level! That's why it is so hard to teach an old dog new tricks..... "old" dogs tend to like their "old" tricks. You know, "If it isn't broken, don't fix it."

It is for these same reasons above that so many techs "discredit" or blame a particular product line for all their problems (like lifting, etc), and just as quickly "credit" a product (the "miracle" product) when they start doing well (they finally "get it"), when really it is THEM and not the product. They could be using papier mache now and get good results. Well I exaggerate a little..... But you get my point! Back to Top

#21)"How long can I wear "fake" or artificial nails?" is a common question heard in our idustry. My first reply is that they are "Nail Enhancements", not fake nails. Just as make-up or haircolor is an enhancement and not described by the word "fake". If they don't "get it", I ask them how long they intend to keep wearing make-up or getting their hair done. They usually understand it then; the answer is FOREVER! For more on this subject see my "Rants and Raves" page.

Barb's picks for Nailite polish starter colors:

In each category they start with the "most important" or most used by my clients, and even these lists make up only a small percentage of the total # in my collection...it is very hard to choose as seasons and trends change... but here is my best shot, then you can get their color chart to order more (and you'll see that the color chart is a little off...but at least you'll have an idea) See my links and resources page for their web site link and 800 phone number.

Basic Reds...124,19,50

Dark reds and burgundies.....75,236,106,97,192

Shimmer reds...(red with gold shimmer)46,(slight orange-gold shimmer hint) 47,and Calypso Punch(no # yet)

Dark shimmers... 252,221,27,28,250,98,235

Light shimmers...(mauvish pearlized)220,(light pearlized pink)109,(white opal pearlized)29

Pinks.....100,224,211,208,217

Beiges....230,231,(65,193,219 these three I personally don't like, but they are their lightest beiges, yuck!)

Orange/peach....95,116,181,179

Mauves...51,85,157

Browns....77,233,151

French Manicure Whites (for free edge): #200 and #39

Black: #42 (for art, mixing etc....)

If this is more colors than you want to start with then ask the nailite representative to help you narrow it down, that's how I started! I like them all, I just can't narrow it down any further than this.

226,119,222,46,227,56,187,178,207,179,116,255,41,224,147,135,158,162,31,211,29,108,109.

Lot's of pinks and peaches and shimmers! Have fun! Back to Top

221,46,235,236,198,192,98,197,158,27,151,28,252,250,257,256,36,17,257,44

I like to put out 20 "new" polish colors each season(Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer)...even if the colors aren't new, they do represent what is in style and the current fashion trend! It helps to let my customers know that they can count on me to keep them up to date on the trends.... and only costs me the price of a new polish wheel! Back to Top

Everybody's always talking about lifting of acrylic nails. Following, are my opinions on some possible fixes or remedies. Of course you should also try contacting the manufacturer of the brand you use for their advice (highly recomended 1st step!). This is my GENERIC advice about how to stop and prevent lifting and every hint may not apply to your situation.

First, consider altering your prep steps! See additional references to prep steps in Rants and Raves, Opinions, and Acrylic nails pages, and others. Most lifting problems can be traced to inadequate preparation of the nail plate and the old acrylic material!!!!!!!

I cannot stress proper prep enough!!!!!! You could also try experimenting with other prep methods such as a stone cuticle pusher (since they are porous, these can't be sanitized properly, so you would need separate ones for each client) and/or pterygium remover (I like the new pusher from OPI), then strong dusting w/ surgical scrub brush or similar....not a fluuffy barber brush! More about this subject in other sections of this site.

OK, next step, wipe with some type of dehydrant, such as 99% alcohol (DO NOT USE 70% TOO MUCH WATER content!) on a lint free wipe, pull from cuticle to off the free edge (like marathon cocktail napkins or generic paper towels), then brush on a pH balancer or dehydrator like Bond-aid (or any of the others, I use the one from Nailite), then prime if you decide to w/ MAP (methacrylic acid primer) or BX (bondex or other similar adhesion promoters) and let dry, then continue as usual.

PRICING PEDICURES

I prefer to see professional techs keep Pedicures at one or 2 price points(in each of our individual salons, you know what I mean)rather than a la carte. Since a regular pedicure would/should be twice the price of a manicure or the same price as a basic fill....then a DELUXE PEDICURE should be that price PLUS about 25% to 33% more (or even more if you can get away with it!). That means the pedicure should include everything (seems more upscale!)rather than having differant types of pedicure packages or add ons (such as aromatherapy, paraffin, etc). A PEDICURE should, in my opinion always be a pampering experience, with no skimping! If you give them the OPPORTUNITY to skimp, by offerring lower price points and lower service levels they will choose those and then leave disappointed, as if it's YOUR FAULT they picked the budget pedicure instead of the "luxury" one, so I offer only one type...the deluxe spa pedicure...period! ("Deluxe" soaking options, paraffin, massage, etc.) Back to Top

PUT TIME TO GOOD USE! ....MASSAGE them to death!~ Time permiting of course, but if feet are maintained regularly and still in good shape, use that extra time for extra massage and TELL them so, don't punish them for taking good care of their feet(by coming in for regular peds 3-6 weeks apart) by just getting done faster (I know a lot of techs do so all the time, because I hear the complaints!)that's not fair to the client! Besides, it's easier to massage than to exfoliate and clip and scrub, etc., etc., etc.,! Back to Top

PEDICURE CLEAN-UP!!!!!

One last tip....always let the clients SEE you cleaning as you go along (at least filling the footbath with bleach and /or disinfectant and setting aside to soak [tell them that's what you are doing, or they may think that that is how you prepared it for them!]), but better yet, while they are in paraffin wax and/or the dryer, make a BIG SHOW of scrubbing the footbath and implements, etc, then rinsing and drying, and/or putting away or into disinfectant solution. Clean up towels and any trash and put in covered containers...etc...yes, they do want to relax, but who can relax if they are worried about sanitation and the mess around them...use a dust buster or broom or sweeper to quickly get stuff up off the floor (nail clippings, exfoliating crystals, etc). After polishing, use the Vaccuum quickly (30 seconds) while they are in the dryer (the dryer is noisy anyway) and spray surfaces w/ a mild non-offensive smelling cleaner, as many surfaces as possible to "soak" before thorough cleaning....if she seems irritated then stop ( or ask first if you prefer) and tell her you will finish later so that she can relax....but I know that there is nothing I like better than watching someone else clean up (without the guilt of feeling you should offer to help!)And again, this will be extremely reassuring to her to SEE you do it! Because now she knows all of this was done before her arrival and she will be eager to rebook and return!!!! (and tell all her friends)....Besides, you've got to do it anyway...... Back to Top

Cut the wells short on the tips....cut out a V if needed...customize the tips well so they fit perfectly....blend the tips (especially the corners) religiously (biters become PICKERS!)...keep the extensions short....have her come in for WEEKLY maintenance for up to 3 months or so as needed...use forms to help "shore-up" the sidewalls as the tips are growing out at fills....make her commit to get a broken (chewed!) nail immediately repaired (otherwise she will become VERY tempted to devoure the other 9 as well!)...sometimes with nailbiters the exact opposite of logical thinking is what is required (keeping their nails a little longer--rather than short as recommended--to "disable" her)...French Manicure polish helps dissuade biting/picking as sometimes problems aren't as noticeable to them and they'll leave them alone, and if one does break it isn't as obviuos to others as a colored polish would be when 1 is broken...but here too sometimes bright red works better w/ some offenders....offer free repairs as long as the free repairs are "redeemed" only one at a time to make her come in right away for repairs--if she needs 2 repairs then she pays for 2 repairs, because she did not come in immediately or ASAP thereafter when she broke/bit/picked the first....This policy also allows you to check the integrity of the other 9 and see if you can find any structural defects and repair them BEFORE they fall victim too....do not leave her ANY rough spots, jagged spots, unbeveled spots to pick at---because she will find them...how do I know this....I was (and sometimes---the horror of it to admit---still am a nailbiter---there, my secret is out.....I am most probably the ONLY nail biting professional nail tech in the world!)

What we should do as professionals is to first stabilize the cracked area by :

#1) Sanitize with alcohol or peroxide (yes this will hurt!)

#2)Put a small amount of high quality nail glue or resin into and on the crack....(contray to popular belief, cyano acrylate, when used properly is not harmful...it was developed for soldiers in the Vietnam war to carry with them so that they could stop a small cut or wound from becoming infected out in the jungle, and then killing them before they could reach a medic! So they would "SEAL" the wound with "crazy glue" to save their lives. Medical grade cyanoacrylate is used by surgeons every day for internal, self dissolving stitches......)

#3) Hold the crack shut untill it dries and is now stable.....

#4) Shorten the nail as short as possible to prevent further damage.

#5) Buff (file, thin) down the break area as much as possible without causing pain (or reopening the crack). This nail will not be beautiful, and will most likely need to be completely redone in 2-3 weeks anyway.

#6) If it is a complete break all the way off, then apply a tip that covers the cracked area on the nail bed to stop air from hitting the nerves, cut the tip fairly short, and continue w/ product application...

#7 If it is a crack down into the "meat" of the nailbed but the nail has not come off, then follow steps above with glue and shortening and buffing, and re-apply product or fiberglass patch..... By the time of her next appt. the break should be pain free and grown out enough for you to fix more properly and more esthetically pleasing...The temp. fix may not be "pretty" or perfect, but the pain will stop...and that alone will make the client happy....

QUESTION: I have a client in a lot of pain from catching her nail extension on her car door handle and ripping the natural nail off of the nail bed, as well as cracking the nail further down the nail bed. What should I do for her?

ANSWER: Sounds like that really hurts...and yes it will be a while before the nail reattaches to the bed. What you are describing is referred to as a MECHANICAL LIFT; meaning it was done by outside force rather than a disease or infectious process. (But the possibility of a "disease" process taking advantage of the compromised nail always exists, so always direct cleints to ssk proper medical attention when necessary.)

Keep the nail clean, dry, and short. According to Dr.s quoted in our trade journals YOU CAN keep an artificial covering on the nail while it grows out (fiber, acrylic, or gel)to help protect it from further injury, and strengthen it enough to withstand the rigors of growing out NOT ATTATCHED to the nail bed....that will take 6 mos or more to accomplish.

So no EXTENSIONS to lengthen the nail (too much weight and pressure on the injured nail, and the length would only act as a lever to BREAK it again). The nail covering will keep oxygen away from the sensitive nail bed nerves...which is what causes the pain...but no bandaids---that only traps moisture in darkness which will lead to secondary infections (bacteria, mold or fungus) settling into the mechanically lifted area which could then lead to disease related nail bed lifting.....

So artificial nails are not to blame...but they did not help....the length you describe was quite extreme...you should never start out w/ extensions that long...it is one thing to GROW out to that length GRADUALLY under the acrylic...but quite another to just go to that length overnite....it's just a disater waiting to happen which is what happened to you.

So yes, in my opinion and experience, you can have nails...but start w/ a reasonable length (such as a 25% extension, meaning that the white FREE EDGE is equal in length to only 25% or 1/4 of the pink nail bed length (the part that is SUPPOSSED to be attatched)) and then gradually go to a 50% extension. 50 to 100% extensions and beyond, just are not practical and as you found out are painful and dangerous.

But, I would alow NO EXTENSION on the cracked/broken nail, until it grows out and reattatches!!!!!

Keep the affected nail short, clean, dry. You can use a professionally applied nail covering for strength, provided that it is maintained and re-shortened regularly. Steer clear of gluing it yourself as glue can trap germs and moisture in , and glue is only a temporary fix that could cause more damage than good if not done properly.

If a client is "hell-bent" on doing it herself with glue then instruct her to PLEASE completely DRY the area first...w/ a blowdryer if possible, then sanitize w/ 91% or higher alcihol, let dehydrate till dry again, then use glue on the end of a clean cuticle stick, a little at a time,use LESS than you think you need, letting layers dry in between coats if applying multiple coats. Then buff lightly w/ white buffer block, and coat w/ clear polish....(This is in addition to SHORTENING the nail.) This is not the recommended way to handle this situation, but a better alternative than......?

They also make something called "crack attackers" that clients can use in place (preferred) of the glue....check your local nail salon or supply house. They are thin, clear, oval nail crack "band-aids" designed specifically for nail cracks....but they are intended to be a temporary fix only, till the client can seek prof. help for a professional repair!....

I advise no polish, or ONLY French Manicure polish (white free edge w/ clear topcoat only) to allow sunlight in (darkness breeds germs and humidity---your enemies right now) and to be able to watch progress of nail bed re-attatchment diligently.

Daily wiping w/alcohol or peroxide may be necessary to kill bacteria in the beginning...do not pick at ugly, yellow, crusty stuff under the nail...that is the scab forming to protect your nail bed..."cleaning" this out will lead to permanent scarring and callousing of the nail bed and the nail will never reattatch ....if you have any questions or concerns though you should call or see or consult your Dr. for further medical advice...especislyy if you see redness or swellin or extreme pain, or elevated body temp...all sings od more serious infection!

Also, nail bed and cuticle skin may need to be moisturized daily too, (especially after disinfecting on a daily basis to clean out germs w/ alcohol)so that nail bed stays supple and non-scarred (use VITAMIN E OIL PRFERABLY, right out of the little capsules for sanitary reasons if possible..if not than atleast some sort of natural, non-scented or non-colored (ie edible )oil, such as sesame or rice bran oil....

Please remember that all the above information is anectdotal in nature and not intended to replace professional advice from a doctor.

1) Pick a model with the best looking hands/nail beds you can find! Practice putting full-sets on her a minimum of 20 times before the competition (this also requires you to remove the full-sets...so...see #2).

2)Invest in a LAQUER WACKER for removing practice sets! It has a spinning cup that removes each hand of acrylics in about 10 minutes...

3)After removal always try to paraffin wax if you can, also massage, hydrate, etc.

4)Set up your practice stattion away from the salon...something that would more realisticly mimic the "rustic" and transient settings of a nail competition. Get yourself an 18" wide table, available in-stock or special order from most office supply houses--they are used for lectures when everyone will be facing in one direction---plus you'll love having it later for use at home (OR THE SALON)---perfect as a buffet table against a wall(takes up very little space) and also great for kids parties, crafts etc because of it's width, comes in 5 and 8 ft lengths, less than $100.

5) Pack up everything you will need and then each time you practice pull it all out and set up as if it is a real competition! This will help you see what you forgot, what doesn't work, etc....you don't want to get to competition to find out that your light isn't strong enough or bothers your eyes, and flickers, and gets hot enough to burn your model should she accidentally touch it trying to be helpful and reposition it for you.....! This also helps you decide where to put things at this make-shift station, and get used to finding them there! Set the timer and GO. Practice each time as if it were the REAL thing!

6) Take lots of before and after photos. If possible, video tape yourself (use a tri-pod) during one of your practice run-throughs. Then watch it to find errors or time wasting techniques! (Check for bad posture, bad technique, notice how your monomer is right under the light so no wonder it seems to be evapoating so fast and you seem so lightheaded.....)

7) If using forms, put forms on and off your model a good 100 times or so....If tips memorize her tip #s as well as refinement techniques to be done to each.

8)Work with whatever product you usualy work with, now is not the time to experiment w/ differant brands.(Especially if you are new to competition.)

9) Practice doing your full-sets in DIFFERANT CLIMATE SETTINGS...such as make the room: too cold, too hot, too humid, too dry, too much overhead light (heating up and activating your product), not enough overhead light, throwing weird shadows, etc.

10) Practice working with NOT ENOUGH SPACE because of space hog neighbors (no matter how well, and how far in advance YOU are ready, there is almost always 1 late arrival who will invariably end up next to you, and all her unorganized stuff will start spilling into your neat, organized section..... so practice working in cramped quarteres... sometimes LITERALLY elbow to elbow w/ the tech next to you... but if you are prepared and have practiced to accomodate this scenario, you won't be flustered!

11)Do not overpack (well you can, but don't un-pack it then)....points have been marked off for a competitor having too many differant sculpture brushes on the table among other things.....

12) Pick an "attack plan" and stick with it---except for the unforseen---such as: crystalyzing product because it feels as if it's minus 20 w/ the wind chill in the competition arena...then go to your back up plans...because you have already practiced this scenario.

13) Do not allow your model to drink a lot of pop or coffee before competition (sounds obvious I know). Also, be sure your model is WELL DRESSED (comfortable, clean, and neat...no jeans or t-shirts, a theme to match you is ALWAYS nice---in case you win, the 2 of you will look great on stage---not like twins, but complimentary is good!) Also, no identifiable jewelry, tatoos, etc, to distract the judges if possible!

14)DO NOT LEAVE POLISH FOR THE LAST MINUTE....allow 10 minutes just for perfect polish, and an additional 10 minutes left AFTER that for other refinements and DRYING time......For the polished hand be sure to use a THICK red so that you can NOT see the PINK and WHITES thru the 2 coats of polish (my personal judging pet peeve!). Buff the polished hand as much as the non-polished hand (time permitting), the polish will look GLOSSIER over the high shine nail! Try to polish the red hand EARLY, unless you are SURE your model will have to wait at least 20 minutes in line to be judged....TRUTH: models (one of mine included!) have complained of the first judge manhandling and smudging her polished hand...sure, the judge IS required to make a note that they are responsible for the smudges, but it ruins the first impression....and this is all about image and first impressions!

15) CONSISTENCY IS KEY! Everybody's idea of THE perfect nail is differant...if yours is differant than mine (the judge) show me that difference with purpose...ALL 10 NAILS MUST BE EXACTLY THE SAME!

SKILLS TO CONCENTRATE ON:

a)LENGTH (relative to each other, obviously the pinkie is not the same ACTUAL length as the thumb). Each of the fingers should match the corresponding finger on the other hand. Middle fingers are longer than index and ring, index and ring are APPROXIMATELY the same length, w/ ring sometimes slightly longer, thumb is generally longer than middle....but this is all subjective and a measure of the free edge length vs. the nail bed length. A good competition length is GENERALLY 100% (but again it depends on your model, and the region of the country you are in where differant lengths are considered acceptable) 100% means that the free-edge (white) equals the nail bed (pink)--standard salon lengths are 25 to 50 %. Again though, consisitency is key, and this is why a good hand model is key because she will have nail beds that are proportionate to each other and to her hands (vs our clients who give us much more of a challenge, and we make trade offs to give the "appearance" of equal lengths when in reality they may not be!)

b)SHAPE Pick a shape, any shape,(complimentary to your models nail bed of course) but be consistent, watch out for "right (or left) hand drag", which means that you pull the file heavier on that side and have a consisitent but WRONG lopsidedness---check the shape from several angles to be sure! Also check for the same degree of tapering on the sidewalls if you taper at all!

c) Arch placement, etc---be consisitent!

d)Blend cuticles and sidewalls so that there is nothing at all to catch on! Keep them thin too, these are COMPETITION NAILS NOT SALON NAILS....they don't have to even make it to the awards ceremony (although that would be nice) they just have to hold up through judging. THIN, THIN, THIN!

e) Make sure your clear is clear and your white is DEFINED...it does not HAVE to be superwhite(although that photographs the BEST, and the photo session at the end IS on the judges mind!). And you do have to show superb definition in your smile line.

TAKE EVEY SECOND OF TIME THAT THEY GIVE YOU, especially when you are new...time is only for ties(in some comps), and is rarely used, and those competitors already know who each other are and so they then use their "Final Jepoardy" strategy to decide time points vs perfection points when it matters..... There is no such thing as nails that are TOO shiny....keep going back w/ that 3-4 way buffer and shine, shine, shine, until time is called.

OK, more to come later on competition tips....(such as scoring systems and sheets, etc)

NAILITE SAVES YOU TONS OF MONEY YOU MUST TRY THEIR NAIL POLISH!

(Note, call and order by phone, I recently their web ordering thru beautytech.com and it was very confusing...ended up having to do the whole order over the phone the next day anyway! So call the 800# (listed on links page). When someone has better luck with the online ordering let me know and I'll update my recommendation here!

I like almost all of the brand-name knock offs from nailite: Love their line of no-name polishes (go back to top to see: A) the 50 colors to start out with (at least 2 or 3 of each to start, then you'll want 6 each of all 200 hundred coros) and: B) the 20 colors I picked from their line to be the trend colors for fall/winter 98 and spring summer 99.

Absolutely LOVE their Thin U-V Gel Shield Topcoat (In my opinion even better than pro-finish). Also gotta love their paraffin wax prices, holiday decals, and diamond and carbide bits for nail drills (my fav they don't carry, the KUPA, but Nailites BITS do fit it perfectly), also like medicool for bits....

DeEnterprises---GET THEIR COMPARES TO...."BONDEX" PRODUCT (I actually first found tham at a show out of state....and here they have been all along, right in my own backyard!)They have a full catalog (it's easy for me, I can just drive there, but of course they ship too and they make knock-offs of EVERYTHING and ANY BRAND you can imagine. THEIR KNOCK OFF OF OPI BONDEX IS BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL THOUGH(in my humble opinion)! ...good prices on glues, acetone, tips, liquid/powder acrylics, empty polish bottles to fill*, etc phone # is on my links and resources page.... Try their BONDEX substitute or their MAP primer, they also make Aqua Nails, an odorless, water cured acrylic, not a favorite of mine, but some techs do use and like it...you sculpt as usual w/ the liquid and powder ---it's odorless---then client puts fingers in bowl of warm water for a minute or so to harden and cure, pat dry with towel, and then file and do finish work as usual.

THE LABELS I'M TALKING ABOUT FOR TURNING NO-NAME OR PRIVATE LABEL POLISH (SUCH AS FROM NAILITE --see list above) ARE NOTHING SPECIAL!!!! THEY ARE CLEAR PLASTIC ADHESIVE LABELS THAT ANYBODY CAN HAVE THEIR LOCAL PRINTER DO FOR THEM (THE PLACE WHERE YOU GET YOUR BIZ CARDS MADE (not the printer on your computer!), OR IN MY CASE I HAVE DESIGNED AND ALSO SPECIAL ORDERED MY OWN CLIENT CARDS AND ALSO MY OWN PAGES FOR MY APPT. BOOK TO SUIT MY EXACT NEEDS in addition to the labels. Unless you are a real computer whiz and have access to the right inks, labels, cutters, etc, this is NOT a do it your self job! Take your ideas into your local PRINT SHOP, they will print them off on rolls of 500 to 10000 each for you to stick on your bottles yourself! Keep it simple and uncluttered. You can use clear, or white, or gold or silver or whatever, in whatever size and shape you want.... I use a 1/2 by 1 inch oval w/ just my company name "nailsplash" in blue in script font on clear self stick labels...I'll scan one in someday, along with my personaliozed client record cards, my appt. book pages, and my appt. cards that have lines for the next 8 standing appts on them...plus the differant phone #s they can get me at for a last minute change....hope this clears up the confusion...and as soon as I am finished reworking this site, I'll scan these items into this web page so you'll all know what I'm talking about....these ideas not only work and look better...they cost A LOT LESS in the long run as well!

I was having trouble finding OPI clor #305, Sonora Sunset (clients brought it in, it's pretty and actually DIFFERANT for once!)...so made my own better version! Using nailite polish I mix: 1/2 bottle #85 (a darker mauve) and 1/2 #29, a pearlized white, plus 8 drops of black (#42) and voila, a perfect COPY, slightly pearlized, slightly purple (rather than pink or brown)mauve. A totally MODERNIZED version of an old favorite! Try it yourself and see!*

You can make your own cuticle oil by the gallon: *mix extra virgin light olive oil, canola oil, sesame seed oil, rice bran oil, apricot kernel oil, grapeseed oil, peach oil, vitamin E oil, jojoba oil (etc, any natural non-mineral oil) ,plus add a few drops of a soothing essential oil (aromatherapy scents), plus a small amt. of tea tree oil (for disinfection properties) and also some "a la fois" [an anti-fungal from Calvert that I add to my polish remover gallons (acetone)] for good measure. Pour it into your own empty polish bottles, or 2 oz plastic bottles, and label it with your "brand" labels made at your printers (the same ones who make your biz cards). You can use it during service for buffing, and retail the 1/2 oz brush on and 2 oz rub in for home use. Also, use it before paraffin wax, in conjunction w/ heavy cream (like Eucerin or Udder Balm), and for massage w/ manicure or pedicures.

I keep my "exfoliating crystals" in beautiful cut glass (creamer) dispensers, clients pour out about a teaspoon worth and mix vigorously with their liquid handsoap for super exfoliation. The crystals are "mineral salts"...ie plain old table salt! Almost all US salt is mined from the salt mines in Utah, which is where the "Dead Sea" used to be! (nice marketing ploy though), all my clients know that it's not some gaurded mystery, that it's JUST table salt (I buy it in 25# bags for about $3). If any one tells you that their salts are more beneficial than table salts then have them send me the MSDS---because if they actually have some therapuetic value beyond salt (reducing swelling and exfoliating properties) then the "SPECIAL" added ingredient would be listed (either as PROPRIETARY OR BY CAS#) and they would also need FDA APPROVAL!!!!!!!!!

Buy empty 1/2 or 1/4 oz. bottles to fill*, makes a great inexpensive x-mas gift filled with your oil with your LABEL on it (see my note at top about ordering from your printer)or fill those bottles w/ topcoat bought in bulk (32 oz bottle makes 64 1/2 oz bottles, again w/ your label and phone # on it---way cool! and not a fortune!) Add a magnet (your biz card stuck to a ready made biz card magnet, find these at shows or again at your local Printer!) and your salon file (mini) with your phone # (see ads in mags from those promo companies) and you are all set for the holidays. More ideas to come here soon.

Care to comment or give an idea for a subject you'd like to see discussed here?...Leave a message at nailsplash.com message boards, the link is below here on this page or back at the nailsplash homepage....

*Always check with your insurance provider before repackaging or "manufacturing" product! Some won't cover you if you don't get their approval first, or a separate "rider"......... and others won't cover it at all! Don't have malpractice insurance??? Check my links page and the link to NCA at http://www.nca-now.com for their links to beauty industry insurance providers!

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