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Part
2 of Gel Nails Continued From Nailspla sh.Com
Gel Nails Page @ http://members.delphi.com/gelnails
Subjects
Covered On This Page
More
On "How U-V Gels Cure" (Cont'd from previous page)
Traditional
acrylics HARDEN in about 10 minutes, but they do not and cannot
CURE for 24 hours or more. Ultra Violet Gel Nails harden in
about 15-30 seconds and cure in about 2 minutes! (In theory,
see disclaimer below....this is how they are supposed to work,
but not ALL do, so buyer beware....and educate yourself.....remember,
that in this world, you get what you pay for.....)
Think of liquid/powder acrylics as your new cement driveway...it
is HARDENED in a few hours and you can walk on it, but it
is not CURED for 3 days, that's why you don't drive on it
until it is cured...if you did you would put minute cracks
in the foundation and throughout the structure that would
not show up right away, but would show up at some point down
the road, thereby reducing the "life expectancy" of your new
cement driveway!
Have you ever painted a wall in a room and "thought" it was
"dry" about a day or so later, so you taped up a poster, and
when you went to move it the tape took the paint up with it!
That's because while the paint was HARDENED it was not CURED.
Now try this on a wall that you know is cured (because you
can't even remember when it was painted....)Unless the paint
never adhered properly to begin with when it was first applied,
ie, greasy fingerprints, contaminants, DIRT, etc...that's
why just painting your walls to cover dirt isn't such a good
idea long term!!!! Walls should be washed first....hmmmmm,
sound similar to nail application....because it is, the ENAMEL
(paints, polishes, another hmmmmmm....) industry is related
to the PLASTICS(nails!) industry. Or if the paint is extremely
old and brittle (another similarity!) Any way, barring the
above 2 scenarios you will see that the tape does NOT take
the paint off of the CURED wall paint!
There is a big differance between hardening a product and
curing a product-----U-V lights allow us to CURE products
faster! Whether it be... acrylics, plastics, gels, laminates,
resins, urethanes, pollyschmolly's.... whatever fancy schmancy
name some manufacturer wants to put on it, or whatever you
want to call them!( a rose is a rose is a rose.....). HARDENED
PRODUCTS are unstable untill they CURE, you must treat them
gingerly until they cure!
ULTRA-VIOLET CURED GELS contain no evaporative solvents and
cure completely before the client leaves the salon (well most
of them anyway). Therefore, there are no foul smells, no solvent
based health/lung concerns, and a nail that is COMPLETELY
DONE/CURED before the client even washes up for polish! These
are the reasons that I prefer U-V Cured Gel Nails....
But...here's the disclaimer..... keep in mind...NOT ALL GELS
AND GEL LAMPS ARE CREATED EQUALLY!...Some of them on the market
(gels and/or lamps) DO NOT CURE COMPLETELY, some of these
manufacturers do warn you to tell your clients that their
nails will keep curing for another 24 hours, and that they
(the client) should treat them with care!) So, while the solvent
inhalation problem is improved with some brands of gel, the
curing properties are really only about the same as traditional
acrylics...it is for these resaons that I like some LIGHTS
AND GELS BETTER THAN OTHERS!
Think of this example...it applies equally to the products
we buy for salon or for our own personal use and home....and
applies to justifying to our clients why they pay the price
they do to come to us versus the discount shop down the block.......Would
you ever really, trully, expect a GEl (or traditional acrylic
for that matter. or the price of a nail service!) that cost
1/2, 1/4, someVerdana, Arial, Helvetica even 1/10th(!)the
price of others to perform as well as the more expensive brand....not
that price is always an indicator of quality....but when was
the last time that you saw 2 houses on the same block (that
appeared approx. equal from the outside) and one was $300,000
and the other was $150K, or $75K, or even $30,000....do you
REALLY think that happens in the real world???? Do you really
think the $30K house was JUST AS GOOD as the $300K house......those
2 houses aren't on the same block, they are not even in the
same neighborhood, town or region.....they are NOT EQUAL of
course! Return
to menu
MORE
ABOUT U-V LIGHT CURING TECHNOLOGY
This next
explanation about U-V light technology can also be seen in
my message boards...it is still in it's "rough draft" and
un-edited, as I thougt it was pertinent info. that should
be delivered to this page sooner in un-edited form, rather
than later, when I get a chance to "tweak" it....hope you
find it informative!
Question:U-V
light technology question Barb-
could you please explain why you like that uv light better
than others. Have you tried the 2 handed ones? Have any studies
been done to determine long term effects of the uv rays on
hands? I always seem to get an itchy rash on my hands with
gels or uv acrylics even if the product did not touch any
skin. I think it comes from the uv rays. Thanks
ANSWERThe
itchy rash would NOT be coming from the U-V lights unless
you happen to be one of those rare people allergic to sunlight.
Which means that you would never go outdoors w/out full protective
geat, and would have to have every window shaded.....
The lighting used in U-V lamps are the same U-V (ultra-violet)rays
in natural sunlight. In fact, the most harmful rays in natural
sunlight have been filtered out to concentrate on the particular
bandwitdh rays that most readily cure gels, w/out interference
and competition from other rays in natural sunlight.
To check this theory just leave some gel anywhere where it
will be exposed to sunlight (put some gel on a a piece of
paper or a nail tip, or leave out a container of it, and watch
as you find that you will eventually find harderned gel (time
varies by how much gel and how much sunlight it got, of course
it takes LONGER than in the light because their is interferance
from other natural rays).
Using just U-V A Ray to cure the gel, (again, found in natural
sunlight!) speeds up the curing process by concentrating just
on the ray wavelength that cures the gel faster and d w/ optimal
performance. U-V A rays are also the least harmful to skin
of the known sunlight rays----also, you get less exposure
to the U-V A rays in these lights on your hands than you did
just driving to and from your nail appt. While NOTHING in
life is ever written in stone these lights are considered
extremely safe with no known or reported health problems or
risks. Return
to menu
More
about U-V lights, gels, and allergic reactions
If you
are getting an itchy rash then it is most likely coming from
a reaction to the gel itself, the cleanser (many of which
are scented, which is why I prefer 99% alcohol), or MOST LIKELY
:(this part brought to my attention by Millie, an educator
at IBD, thanks for the reminder Millie!) the slight bit of
uncured gel that rises to the top of a cured gel nail and
removed(that tacky/sticky top layer that you remove w/ cleanser
or alcohol). Since this is UNPOLYMERIZED GEL, is has the highest
possibility of causing reaction.
You must be very careful when removing this "dispersion layer"
to put down your wipe at the cuticle and pull off the nail
bed with NO SCRUBBING OR BACK AND FORTH MOTION....only PULL
the wipe straight off the nail from cuticle to free edge.
Always use a new section of wipe when moving on to the next
nail so as to not wipe the redidue from the last nail onto
the next. each brand of gel nail s has differing amounts of
this residue, some have a lot (mor potential for reactions)
some have very little (they can alsmost be DRY WIPED....Trosani
from Switzerland (impoted to USA and dist. by Maggie Boyd
Exclusively.... and to some extent some of the LCN gels.
You may be allergic to only that brand of gels or gel a as
a class (possibly the photo-initaitors, these take the place
of solvents to start polymerization of the gel from liquid
to solid under the lights). As far as long term studies (on
gels and U-V lights)...the only studies done of course come
from the tanning industry...and the medical community that
has developed U_V RAY LIGHT BOXES TO HELP PEOPLE WITH S.A.D
(seasonal affective disorder)...
There have not been any substantial studies in our industry
(except for MMA, which is why it's banned) But I doubt that
reserchers would bother w/ studues on U-V light which is less
powerfull and less broad in spectrum than the U-V light we
get from just walking outside...and again, the alternative:
evaporation based curing is seen as a higher risk and priority
for study...yet they have not done those studies yet either....by
the way, U-V cured gels/resins are used by dentists in our
mouths every day...ever has a cavity filled or tooth bonded
and the dentists asst. then stood their holdong a light on
it in your mouth for a minute or two?.....
As for 2 handed lights...these are for drying polish, they
do not have the power to cure gels properly...... in my humble
opinion.....and how would you cure the thumbs if they are
FACING EACH OTHER, instead of facing a u-v bulb....also, how
does one work with the lamp in the middle of the workspace
on the table? Just thoughts to ponder...
It's not necessarily this class of lights that I dislike (ie
that I do not prefer), but the BULBS INSIDE THEM...contrary
to popular manufacturer beliefs (or marketing strategy perhaps?)...u-v
rays do not bounce/reflect off of "tin" foil type material
(refective material) with anywhere near their initial strength
(Have you ever seen a tanning bed with these tin foil "reflectors"?
NO!!!!!!....point made!)
My bulb of choice for the best possible cure is the OSRAM
DULUX, 9 watt, U shaped bulb! When oh when will someone besides
LCN catch on and make a lamp with these bulbs!!!!!!! (THAT
IS NOT A TYPO IT IS DULUX W/ A "u"). ***Update Quality Beauty
Supply (see link spage) now carries a lamp with 2 (not 4)
of the osram bulbs in it for about $100.
****EVEN BETTER UPDATE!!! LE (LIGHTELEGANCE) HAS THEIR NEW
U-V LIGHT NOW!!! SEE MY LINKS PAGE FOR THEIR SITE TO ORDER.
Return
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BARRIER
CREAMS
One last thought regarding the subject matter above.... Try
using barrier creams (proper methods of application are somewhere
in my web site...basics, wash hands, dry hands, apply foam,
working into cuticles and under nails, let dry for 5 minutes
....repeat if especially sensitive...this should solve allergic
responses to ANY nail product....even if you never use gels,
start using a barrier cream ASAP to prevent a future allergy/sensitvity
to other nail products and risk losing your career due to
extreme and possibly down the road FULL-BODY sensitization...meaning
not just the hands anymore...the lungs...all your skin (from
eveaporating solvents.....) see my note in my web pages on
this subject...I think it is wherever I put the discusssion
on aromatherapy ....(guess I need an index for my site!).
As for barrier creams I personally like Dermashield because
it also contains the long-acting anti-bacterial Triclosan.
(See links page for web site address and phone #'s)
PS Have you checked out the offer from Light Elegance (direct
link from my links page) for a trial kit w/ 5 gels (10gms
each) for only $10!!!! If it's not listed on the site...just
mention that Barb@Nailsplash told you and they'll give you
the deal! Return
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ODORLESS
AND U-V ACRYLIC SYSTEMS
I
would suggest checking out professional NAIL companies that
will ALWAYS have education and support available to you, such
as STAR NAIL (U-V acrylics and gels) Light Concept Nails (
Gels only, as far as I know----I especially love their lamp!).
Check out your local distributor that you use most, and see
which brands they carry, and which manufacturers have the
most classes coming up in your area. That's where I would
start. Learning any new system takes time and patience, and
you will want the most professional technical help you can
get....many have toll-free hotlines manned by professional
educators to help you in a jam, between classes!
When you settle on a product line take several classes, and
then retake them a few months later, just to be sure. And
ALWAYS beware of any companies who claim their product is
so EASY to learn, that is a promise that simply can't be backed
up! (Re-training to any new product whether it's a new brand
or type of product is a HUGE committment) Stick with professional
only products, they won't steer you wrong. If you are interested
in GELS in particular keep reading on!. As for U-V cured liquid
powders I have tried the STAR nails one, and liked it, as
do several other techs I know, who currently use it.
Return
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PURCHASING
YOUR FIRST GEL NAIL SYSTEM
One way to start is with the LCN kit, which includes the light
and samples of their gel, as well as a video (I think). This is
THE LIGHT YOU HAVE TO HAVE (*see update info above though about
the new LE light!), so even if you decide on a differant gel later,
you will still use it with the LCN lamp (I know the manufacturers
don't like it---but this lamp cannot be beat---not that I have
found yet anyway! AND BESIDES THIS IS MY SITE AND MY OPINION!)
I use 3 of them at each station, 2 in front, one for each
hand, and one on the left side of my L shaped station for
repairs, overlapping clients, etc.
So now, if you buy any other light (or already have one) other
than the LCN, I recommend curing the FIRST COAT OF GEL FOR
TWICE AS LONG AS THEY (THAT PARTICULAR GEL LIGHT MANUFACTURER)
TELL YOU TO! REALLY, THIS WILL MAKE A DRAMATIC IMPROVEMENT
IN THAT PRODUCTS PERFORMANCE...TRY IT MY WAY FIRST PLEASE...THEN
TRY THEIR WAY, if you are happy with their results then you
have lost nothing but a little time, and I'd LOVE TO HEAR
ABOUT ANY OTHER LAMPS ON THE MARKET ACTUALLY PERFORMING THE
WAY THEY SHOULD (and not just for the full-set, I want to
see continued good results 2-3-4 fills down the line!).
THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THESE OTHER LAMPS, THEY ARE JUST
TOO SLOW FOR MY PATIENCE LEVEL, AND IN MY OPINION THEIR OWN
INSTRUCTIONS ARE WRITTEN INCORRECTLY, which is why I say to
cure for double the time they tell you to(especially the all-important
1st coat!)
When somebody else comes out w/ a lamp as good as the LCN
I can't wait to be the first to try it. Hopefully some AMERICAN
company will get on the ball and gives us a lamp as good as
the LCN (made in germany). Anybody out there in manufacturer
land listening?
UPDATE: LE (Light Elegance Gels in Oregon, USA)IS WORKING
ON THIS VERY IDEA AS WE SPEAK!!!!KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED!
Please hurry Jim!
As for gels, if you want something less expensive than the
LCN gels, try the STAR Calcium Kapping gel (I use something
similar to this that I private labe). THEY (mine and the star)
have a differant consisitency than the LCN gels, which I personally
happen to prefer, but others prefer the LCN or even IBD lines
of gel, it's all a matter of individual preferance. LE has
a 1 component that would be similar in consistency to the
star and their 3 step system woulkd be similar to the LCN.
I can't TELL you which to choose, you have to experiment and
decide for yopurself, all I can offer is my opinion and what
I use---but that may not be the answer for you! Once you have
the LCN light, you only have to buy individual containers
of gel from the other companies, and not invest in another
whole kit! (This is MY opinion, each nail tech must decide
for themselves if this is the right methodology for them!
Always consult the manufacturer of your specific product line
for specific info.) Return
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MORE GEL NAIL TRAINING ADVICE
First, get your hands
on every single video and training manual you can, from every
company you can. What this will do for you is give you a preview
of many different styles and techniques for you to experiment
w/ and come up w/ your own style. Because I have yet to find one
single manufacturer that gives perfect instructions. Unfortunately
a lot of them don't even know how to use their own products!
Actually, with some companies, if you follow their instructions
you will
A) waste
a lot of product
B) waste
a lot of time and
C) have nails
that don't hold up well or even look good and
D) YOU'LL
BE DOING IT WRONG!.
So it takes
time and patience and experimentation. Keep rewatching the
tapes to keep refining and changing your technique as you
gain experience.
Many companies
make tapes such as : LCN, IBD, Star, etc, look in Nails and
Nail Pro Magz for others (also, once a year they even publish
a list of all the videos on nails available by category, if
I come across it in my magazine library I'll add the info
here)
As far as
a gel for a 1st time user of gels to use,.... I would start
w/ the LCN since they are probably the closest to you (This
was originally a personal email to a nail tech in Europe).....(Germany,
Wilde Cosmetics) so probably the least expensive, or NOW YOU
CAN ALSO GO WITH THE LE STARTER KIT with light and gels. And
no matter where you live, they (LCN and LE) make the best
light on the market right now anyway, so you might as well
start w/ their starter kit which includes the light and samples
of each of their gels, and their video. At shows it's usually
on deal.
I personally
am not particularly fond of their gels, but many techs are.
So it's a good starting point, and at least you'll have a
really good lamp!!! (eventually you'll want 2, one for each
hand as you build speed). And YOU may personally like their
gel best after you sample some others.
Preparation
of the nail plate is the 1st impt step, and a good cure is
essential...I could go on and on, but 1st you need to play
w/ them awhile.
Last tip,
go get gels put on yourself somewhere and everywhere (you'll
find some good and a lot of bad, but you'll learn from both
experiences).
MORE
NOTES ON GEL NAILS
Always
remember to keep the GEL OFF OF THE SKIN--BECAUSE YOU CANNOT REMOVE
THE TACKY REDIDUE LAYER (UNCURED GEL) FROM THOSE SPOTS THAT WILL
BE RESTING ON CLIENTS SKIN (can lead to allergies, irritation
or skin sensitivities) on the backside of the extension. In emergencies,(not
for stadard operating procedure)I keep alcohol in a nozzle squeeze
bottle to try and flush those areas clear if possible---if they
have been loaded up w/ skin protectant (such as Dermashield, or
Gloves in a bottle before hand that will help, but not cure the
problem).
I also ALWAYS recommend curing the hand UPSIDE DOWN in the
lamps ANYTIME YOU HAVE DONE AN EXTENSION WITH A FORM WITH
GEL , to be sure that there are no spots of uncured gel anywhere.
Safety is one concern (there is no extra risk here vs any
other product), where I am an extremist! When it comes to
safety, (because of my chemical experience in the lab and
in the pilot plant where I worked w/ products in 55 gallon
barrel drums)there is no such thing as being too safe!
So, just remember,REPEATED OVEREXPOSURE to ANYTHING can lead
to sensitivities and even actual allergies. Mainly I cure
upside down to insure optimal strength and integrity of the
nail extension, as well as to make sure free edge and sidewalls
that really tunnel get complete exposure to lights for complete
curing...plus, if you have ever come around the table and
watched how your clients place their hands in the lights sometimes....you'd
wonder why you bother to even turn them on! Return
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Copyright©
1998-2001, Nail Splash, Inc. All Rights Reserved. No parts of this website
may be duplicated in any manner without express permission, authorization
and credit! Those who copy and paste parts of my website into their own
websites or into other printed materials without my express
permission will be hunted down and cursed forever with the inability to
do gel nails properly. This curse TRULY exists, so do NOT tempt fate,
I will find you! Just WRITE me and ASK me for permission (which I WILL give
you if you ask and credit me), it's that simple!!!!
(Not responsible for any errors or ommissions!)This site is constantly being
updated, revised and improved. New info is added at regular intervals! Check
back often for the latest additions.Again, let me repeat: None of my info
or words to be used, copied, duplicated, replicated in any form or manner
without expresswritten permission and credit. Plagarism is not pretty!e-mail:
info@nailsplash.com(Please use my message boards www.NailSplash.NET instead
of email for all website, technical, or any nail industry related questions.I
appreciate and try to read all email, but I simply cannot privately answer
it all! I do however, answer as many posts as possible directed tome personally
in my message boards. Also, we have many "resident" experts available
in the message boards to help answer your technical or product specific
questions! Try it, you will be happy you did, hope to "see" you
in there. Take Care All, ---Barb!) |
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